PHOLUS Special Order Tour IN
POTATO MEGANE FUKUOKA
The first stop on the PHOLUS national tour will be a glasses shop in Fukuoka.
For three days, from Friday, April 24th to Sunday, April 26th, it will be held at "POTATO MEGANE FUKUOKA" in Daimyo.
This tour began with the initiative of "public recruitment." We sincerely thank all the followers who submitted recommendations. Each and every one of your voices, saying "I want to see blueover at that store," was the sole driving force behind this project. The venue, "TAGAI YO! HINTEN" in Yamaguchi, was recommended by one of our followers.
Aiming for the pinnacle of sneakers
These shoes may resemble leather shoes, but we categorize them as sneakers.
The reason we call these shoes sneakers is because they feature a sneaker sole with cushioning and grip, rather than the stiff sole typically found on leather shoes. And that's not all. Even in unseen areas, the brand's accumulated sneaker-making expertise has been incorporated.
These shoes represent blueover, a sneaker brand, in its pursuit of crafting the ultimate pair of shoes.
Imbuing lasts and manufacturing methods with our philosophy.
The most simple and classic open-laced plain toe. For this timeless design, we pursued beauty and functionality as blueover. We went through countless prototypes until we were satisfied with the ideal form we envisioned. The form of this shoe was born with the imagination that it would be passed down for decades to come.
Featured on the YouTube channel "THE OLD RIVER CHANNEL."
goodyear welted sneaker
pholus | original
￥63,000.- (tax excluded)
Sizes｜22.5/23.0/23.5/24.0/24.5/25.0/25.5/26.0/26.5/27.0/27.5
Materials｜Waterproof leather / Cow lining / EVA / Rubber
Construction｜Goodyear welted
Last｜Marco Last
01 | PHOLUS features
Easy to wear, easy to walk in
We take for granted that shoes should be "easy to wear and easy to walk in." How, then, should these shoes be designed? Here, we unravel the answer, considering leather shoes rooted in bespoke tradition that prioritize a perfect fit, and sneakers, born of mass production, designed to accommodate a multitude of feet. These two distinct origins and structures converge here.
Malcolast
It is said that everything about shoemaking is determined by the last. The last is the prototype of a shoe, made to mimic the shape of a human foot. It expresses the brand's philosophy and influences the fit when worn.
Dress shoes, sneakers, boots—each has its own dedicated last design. As a sneaker brand, we designed this form not for dress shoes, but from a sneaker last. Therefore, the reason why it looks like a dress shoe but is actually a sneaker lies here.
So, what specific design philosophy went into creating this last? We will explain this by comparing it with the last design of typical dress shoes.
Leather shoe silhouettes
Based on a sneaker last, we've incorporated shoe last design principles. The result is a
Roomy toe box
The forefoot area is designed to be roomier than with leather shoes, allowing for easier toe movement, reducing strain and pressure, and suppressing stuffiness inside the shoe.
Shallow waist
The waist (arch) of the inner arch has been made to fit more people. It is shallower than a leather shoe last, designed for a relaxed fit.
Small heel
The heel area is designed to be smaller than Western lasts to fit Japanese feet. This ensures the heel stays securely in place when walking.
The patterns and details are tailored to a hybrid last that combines sneakers and leather shoes. Though not immediately apparent visually, the philosophy of sneakers is incorporated throughout.
The opening, sponge, and insole are all designed to work in conjunction to deliver their full functionality.
shoe opening
Compared to typical leather shoes, the heel height is higher and the ankle height is standard. Designed so that the shoe follows your foot when walking.
Clearance design
A 5mm-thick sponge is placed on the tongue and the upper part of the heel opening. When worn, the slight cushioning fills the gaps.
Two types of comfort
The insole is removable and can be worn either with or without it. This allows you to choose the feel of both dress shoes and sneakers.
The materials are domestically tanned leather, and chemicals are also sourced from domestic factories. This gives a sense of the rugged, no-nonsense quality of the product's materials.
Upper
Uses waterproof leather developed with a tanner. During the tanning process, a waterproof fatliquor is added, which blocks water within the leather's fibers. The waterproof function is maintained semi-permanently.
Lining
To properly absorb moisture emitted from the feet inside the shoes, we selected an unfinished material with an unpigmented grain, utilizing the natural properties of the leather.
Insole
The insole features a 3mm thick EVA cup sole, providing moderate cushioning to reduce fatigue while walking.
sole
Features a processed sole developed using sneaker technology in Kobe, Nagata. This traditional manufacturing method involves cutting a cushioned EVA sheet and attaching a rubber sole.
02 | PHOLUS feature
Tradition and Succession
Shoes are completed by joining the upper part (upper) and the lower part (sole). There are several methods for this, but these shoes utilize the Goodyear welt construction, which is considered the most complex process even for leather shoes. This method has long been synonymous with high-quality shoes; while it takes time to break them in, their characteristic feature is that they can be enjoyed for a long time with proper care.
Currently, only a handful of domestic factories can handle this construction. Furthermore, instances of using Goodyear welt on sneakers are extremely rare, making them a very unique product. We aim to create a pair of shoes that are not consumables but rather something that can be passed down to your children.
About Goodyear Welt Construction
- Construction: Composed of parts called the upper, insole (rib), welt, and outsole.
- Insole rib: The insole has a protrusion called a "rib," and this rib, the upper, and the welt are sewn together.
- Welt: Sewn to the upper and insole (rib), and then sewn to the outsole.
[Advantages]
- Durability: Due to its complex structure and robust stitching, it boasts higher durability compared to other manufacturing methods.
- Comfort: The cork filling (mid-filling) between the insole and outsole conforms to the shape of the foot with wear, increasing the fit.
- Ease of repair: If the outsole wears out, only the outsole can be replaced without damaging the welt. This allows the shoes to be worn for a long time.
- Breathability: The cork filling has moisture-absorbing properties, absorbing and releasing moisture inside the shoe, resulting in good breathability.
[Disadvantages]
- Manufacturing cost: Due to the time and effort involved, manufacturing costs are higher compared to other methods.
- Weight: Due to its complex structure and numerous parts, it is heavier compared to other manufacturing methods.
- Stiffness: The leather is initially stiff, requiring time to break in.
They become more comfortable with every wear. Soles that tell a story.
A cork sheet is inserted between the insole and the outsole, and as you wear the shoes, the bends in the insole and the cork inside absorb moisture and gradually mold to the shape of the wearer's foot. This creates the best possible fit, unique to you. It's a pair of shoes that takes time to perfect.
A more waterproof welt
The welt shape used in Faurth shoes is not the common "flat welt" but rather a "split welt," which is skived on one side to create a Y-shaped cross-section. This welt acts as a barrier against water more effectively than a standard flat welt, offering superior water resistance.
BLUEOVER Goodyear Welting construction
At blueover, we adopt the Goodyear welt construction method while incorporating sneaker technology. In regular Goodyear welts, the outsole is stitched to complete the shoe. However, with blueover, we stitch to a split leather called "ainaka" instead of the outsole. Then, we cement the unit sole, which serves as the actual outsole, to the ainaka to complete the shoe.
- Advantages
Easy to repair: Since the wearable outsole and the ainaka are bonded, it's easy to replace a worn outsole. *It's important that wear does not reach the ainaka. - Lightweight & Flexible: The EVA + rubber unit sole provides better flexibility than a leather sole, making it lighter and more comfortable to wear.
*For Dainite soles, the ainaka and sole are stitched together.
03 | PHOLUS features
The Future of Domestic Shoemaking Technology
PHOLUS is made by many factories and artisans who have supported Japan's shoemaking industry for many years. Shoes are produced through a division of labor across various regions. This division of labor was a social structure that supported the nation's growth in the past. However, due to modern globalism, the domestic division of labor is becoming dysfunctional, and many factories are continuing their efforts to keep the flame of the shoemaking industry alive, despite facing numerous challenges. Each pair of shoes, crafted with the thoughts and beliefs of these factories, can be said to be the culmination of domestic shoemaking technology.
Voices of the Makers
Questions for the Factory
①Dedication to work
②The future of the footwear industry
─Cutting and Sewing: Abe Cutting Factory Co., Ltd.
① We strive to ensure consistent quality in our production, not just meeting certain standards.
② The number of factories and skilled workers is decreasing at a faster rate than the decline in domestic production and sales. Consequently, there has been a significant decline in technical capabilities and production capacity in areas not reliant on innovation. Re-evaluating and changing the perception of this aspect of the industry is crucial for its survival.
─Sole processing: Fujinaga Kako
①To carefully craft each and every shoe.
②Although inexpensive overseas shoes are taking market share, I believe that if we work with manufacturers who carefully craft each and every shoe, there will still be business for us in the future.
─Sole attachment process
①We value the robustness of the Goodyear welt method and the fit that conforms to your foot the more you wear them. We aim to create shoes that you can wear with affection for a long time.
②We believe that the number of customers seeking intrinsic value will increase. We aim to create shoes that offer added value and can be worn for a long time through repair, rather than focusing solely on price.
We want to continue making shoes that have a unique texture that can only be achieved through the handiwork of artisans, and that conform to your feet the more you wear them, with a little extra care and attention to detail.
—Pattern Studio Yoshimi Co., Ltd.
① We strive to create patterns with the creator in mind, while respecting the wishes of the client who commissioned the work.
② We hope that the environment for shoe manufacturing in Japan will continue for a long time. To achieve this, we want to dedicate time to passing on knowledge and skills.
─Sanyo Leather Manufacturing
① A major challenge is to produce "a slightly firmer leather that doesn't show grain lift."
We add special oils to give the leather waterproof properties, but we've managed to keep the leather firm despite these oils tending to make it softer.
② While the vegan leather boom has subsided, the future of leather remains uncertain. In the industry, there's a strong trend towards softer leather and avoiding vein marks, leading to a decrease in high-quality smooth leather. Embossed leather is also becoming more common for randoseru (school bags). This may be due to a decline in raw hide quality caused by reduced meat demand. Leather is a byproduct of the meat industry, and with proper care, it has a long lifespan. Although it aligns well with ethical consumption, this understanding is not yet widespread. Industry-wide awareness is important, but whether it will lead to increased sales is uncertain. The situation is complex.
─Rubber Manufacturing and Processing: Nishii Co., Ltd.
①As a shoe sole manufacturer, our strength lies in the fact that we handle everything from rubber mixing to molding in-house, which allows for easy production management and immediate response to any issues.
②The domestic shoe industry is in steady decline. While there are multiple factors contributing to this, I believe that if things continue as they are, it may become impossible to manufacture shoes domestically.
─Insole Processing
①Places that accept insole orders even for a single pair
②Fair Trade | I believe it's important to create an environment where both parties can conduct business comfortably, without price haggling.
Goodyear-welted sneaker
pholus | original
¥63,000 (¥69,300 including tax)
Sizes｜22.5/23.0/23.5/24.0/24.5/25.0/25.5/26.0/26.5/27.0/27.5
Materials｜Waterproof leather/Cow lining/EVA/rubber
Construction｜Goodyear welt
Last｜Marco last
Pholus Special Order Event
Order Event
- The designs are available in two types: external blucher plain toe and U-tip.
- You can choose between two types of upper material: waterproof leather tanned in Himeji Sanyo, and Horween Chromexcel.
- Soles are available in three types: the original unit sole, Dainite sole, and tank sole Vibram #100.
- At the trunk show, you can choose sizes from 22.5 to 27.5 in half-size increments.
※Prices will vary if you select the Dainite sole, Vibram #100, or Chromexcel.
Fitting by a Shoe Fitter
Reservation for a Visit
- On the day of the event, staff with shoefitter qualifications will be on hand to assist you. Please feel free to visit even if you have concerns about the fit of your shoes.
- During the order fair, we may measure your feet. In such cases, customer service may take time, so if you make a reservation in advance, we will prioritize assisting you.
- If you wish to visit and have your feet measured, please consult with us regarding your preferred date and time (up to three preferences) using the form below. We will coordinate and contact you.
＜Please Note＞Please be aware that carrier emails such as @docomo, @au, and @softbank cannot be used.
Friday, April 24 – Sunday, April 26, 2026
POTATO MEGANE FUKUOKA｜Fukuoka Daimyo
Bamboo Court Oku, 1-8-30 Daimyo, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka
