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10th PROJECT: 03.Leather and sole material

In the previous ``Decide on Specifications'', it was decided that the 10th anniversary commemorative Mikey, also known as ``Everyone's Mikey,'' which can have replaceable soles, would use the Mackay manufacturing method, making use of the know-how that Blue Over has cultivated over many years!
And for the upper, I decided to make nubuck leather by brushing the surface of the brand's original smooth leather...! This time we will start by checking the nubuck leather sample.

Go to "01. Planning meeting"

Go to “02.Decide specifications”

Go to “04. Completion of “Sample””

Person introduction

Watari
The founder and designer of blueover. Tama's hobby is wood carving.

Egawa
blueover/struct staff. During the winter, I fell in love with knitting.


The surface of the original smooth leather is brushed to create nubuck leather. How is the sample?

Egawa: It's been a while since the last time, but how is the situation with the samples?

Watari
Where the leather came from. Made of waterproof nubuck and oil buffed finish. How about?

Waterproof leather on the left, oil leather on the right. Both have their surfaces buffed to make them nap.

Egawa
The oil isn't what I expected...

Watari
The oil leather type seems to get soaked with too much oil and slip when sanding the silver surface to make it nubuck, making it difficult to get a nice finish.
The tanner also had a stern look on his face. He also said that the surface was so uneven that it was difficult to make it into a product.

Egawa
Haha~. That's what happened!
You won't know until you try...
But the brushed waterproof leather looks nice.

Watari
The waterproof nubuck one doesn't lose its look. It's finished in a nice way.
So. Hey, look at this. This is what happens when water is poured on regular nubuck, which is not waterproof.

Water soaks in quickly and changes the color of the leather.

Egawa
Yeah, well, it's like this.

Watari
Next up is this nubuck!

Repels water and does not soak into the leather

Egawa
Wow, that's amazing. I'm playing crackling water!

Watari
Is that so. It's amazingly waterproof.
When you look at it in its leather state, it seems to be repelling water tremendously.

Egawa
The water is rolling around.
that? Is Marco's waterproofing the same?

Watari
yes. They are tanned with the same waterproof fatliquoring material, so they repel water in the same way.

Egawa
Isn't it already decided that waterproof nubuck will be used for "everyone's Mikey"?

Watari
That's right. It's extremely waterproof and retains its nubuck texture. I'm thinking of making shoes out of this.

A sample of the bottom material has also arrived. At first glance it looks like just a sole...?

Watari
So, I was able to prepare a sample of the sole.

Egawa
Hmm, I said, “Oh, it’s the sole material.”
All I know is that...

Watari
That's true. I'm not trying to be unusual. I can't help but react to that...Well, to explain, the standard Mikey's sole unit is a processed sole made by laminating carved EVA and outsole rubber.

Egawa
Yes, that's right.

Watari
This time it's McKay, so the one part "Ainaka" will be sandwiched between the hooked upper and the processed sole, just like Marco and Runmar.

*McKay stitching is actually done using a special sewing machine.
“Ainaka”. The left side is the bottom surface where it touches the outsole. The top surface where the right side touches the upper
McKay stitch is applied along the groove and sewn to the upper.

Watari
This "Ainaka" is sewn into the upper and mackey.
Then the process of pasting the sole unit on

Egawa
I see. For some reason, I feel like it's going to look a lot less like McKay. What is this dare?

Watari
I want it to look like sneakers.
The Mackay manufacturing method is often used for leather shoes, so the soles to match are often brown or black. This time, I will arrange white color for this ``Ainaka'' as well, so that the EVA and ``Ainaka'' will be smooth when laminated together.
Things like Marco are designed so that the edges come out. This is done so that it fits perfectly all around.

“Ainaka” and the sole are exactly the same shape

Watari
It's still in the parts stage, but when I make it into shoes, I'm thinking of finishing it with details similar to Nike's Cortez.

Egawa
Just looking at the sole, you can see that they decide on the specifications by choosing from a variety of options that you wouldn't expect...

Watari
Well, no matter what kind of work you do, you'll have trouble in unexpected places and you'll have to come up with some ingenuity. Customers can often sense these details even if they can't explain them specifically.
So I can't get away with it. If you finish it sweetly, people will see through you.

Egawa
I also feel it intensely every day.
They haven't turned into shoes yet, but I feel like the next step is to finally make them into shoes.

Watari: That's right. I'm at the stage where I'm going to try making these into shoes. I hope it goes well.
Anyway, let's move on!

Egawa
I'm looking forward to it~
thank you


Next time, the separate parts will finally come together to form a shoe!
Will you be able to complete it easily? Look forward to it~

Go to "01. Planning meeting"

Go to “02.Decide specifications”

Go to “04. Completion of “Sample””

Read more

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10th PROJECT: 02. Deciding on specifications

At the first planning meeting, the special item that symbolizes the 10th anniversary will be the model "Mikey", which can be said to be the face of blueover, and we will tell you about the process...

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10th PROJECT:04.「サンプル」の完成

10th PROJECT: 04. Completion of “sample”

Last time, we finally decided on all the parts such as waterproof nubuck and inaka that will be used in "Everyone's Mikey"! This time, we will create a "sample" that combines the parts. Will they ...

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