10th PROJECT: 01. Planning meeting
blueover will celebrate its 10th anniversary on April 17, 2021. Designer Watari and staff member Egawa held a planning meeting to create a new 10th anniversary commemorative item following the voting project "Invitation to the Development Office."
The theme is ``Using the experience and connections that blueover has gained over the past 10 years, we will create shoes for our fans.''
In this content, we will follow the development of commemorative items.
Go to “02.Decide specifications”
Go to "03. Leather and sole materials"
Go to “04. Completion of “Sample””
Person introduction
Watari
The founder and designer of blueover. Tama's hobby is wood carving.
Egawa
blueover/struct staff. During the winter, I fell in love with knitting.
Egawa
In 2021, blueover will finally celebrate its 10th anniversary!
Watari
It started on April 17, 2011, so it will be 10 years this April.
It seems like time passes so quickly
Egawa
You want to do something special, not just a voting event.
Watari
That's right, what would be good? If I were to do something, I'd like to make use of the experience and connections I've gained over the past 10 years with the brand.
Egawa
is not it. How about making products that respond to the actual requests of customers, which I feel when I'm in the store?
Watari
I agree. It's a brand that is made possible by the people who continue to support us. Let's do it by all means
Egawa
Hmm...one of the most common requests we receive from customers is to replace the sole of Mikey.
We often receive inquiries either in-store or by email.
Watari
Certainly, I hear this request often. I can understand why there is a demand for sole replacement for shoes in this price range, but...
Egawa
Officially, we do not recommend replacing Mikey's soles.
Watari
Yeah. McKay models like Marco and Runmar can be replaced, but the cemented method used in Mikey is glued, not sewn.
▲Cemented manufacturing method is also used for general sneakers and leather shoes.
Since it is adhesive, it is resistant to water, but it is not suitable for replacing the sole.
Egawa
If you peel off the adhesive that holds the upper and sole together when replacing the shoe, it may break and become unwearable. That's why I can't recommend it.
Watari
There will be traces left behind when it comes off, and even if you glue it together again, the finish will be messy. Then I try to use a grinder to clean it up, but the damage accumulates even more on the upper.
If that's okay, it's your responsibility. It's an exchange with the preamble, isn't it?
Egawa
I agree….
This is a little off topic, but what is the reason for using cemented Mikey when there are disadvantages when replacing it?
Watari
Speaking of reasons, I guess it's the sneaker-like quality. It's also lightweight
Egawa
It's true that I feel that Mikey is lightweight, and customers often say that as well.
Watari
After all, when we started out as a sneaker brand, we couldn't remove the laminated soles as an element of "uniqueness."
Egawa
HM. The starting point is sneakers.
Watari
Then there's the toe roll-up of the outsole. Make the tip of the sole thinner and attach it to the toe area of the upper. This is also a kind of “ness.”
By the way, this roll-up also serves to prevent the sole from peeling off due to trips on steps.
That's it. A developer at a sports manufacturer used to say this (lol)
▲Rolling up the toes
Egawa
I see, that toe had such a meaning.
That's why various sneakers have this basic toe shape.
Watari
However, there are some old Cortez that are not wound.
Rolling up the toe has probably been a standard throughout the history of sneaker making.
Egawa
Haha, I understand why Mikey uses the cemented method.
But this time, I would like to make a Mikey whose sole can be changed.
Watari
As long as it is made using the cemented manufacturing method, the current problem of the damage that accumulates on the upper and the damage that occurs when the sole is removed when replacing it will not be solved.
Egawa
What about McKay or Goodyear Welted, which are made by sewing rather than gluing? I'm secretly thinking that it would be a good idea to add a new model of Mikey made by McKay to the standard lineup...
▲Blueover uses the Mackay manufacturing method for Marco.
Marco sews the inaka and upper together, so there is no stress on the upper when replacing the outsole.
▲Goodyear welt manufacturing method. To be more specific, what we use at Fors is called 90% hand sewn, which is a part of the Goodyear welt manufacturing method that is done by hand by craftsmen. The sole is sewn on like the Mackay manufacturing method. Often used for authentic men's shoes.
Watari
This will reduce the risk of damage when replacing shoes, but the appearance of shoes will change.
Egawa
I see….
But if I'm making it as a 10th anniversary model, I want it to feel special, assuming the sole can be replaced.
Watari
For the past 10 years, we have been receiving cooperation from customers, processed soles, tanneries, shoe factories, and many other sources. As the culmination of our continued shoe making, let's create something called ``Everyone's Mikey.''
Egawa
that's nice!
Watari
However, I talked about the appearance earlier, but if you use Marco or Folse soles for Mikey, it will take away from the ``Mikey-likeness''.
For example, if you simply use Marco's sole for Mikey and use the McKay method, it will be almost the same as Marco's.
Egawa
surely. Marco has Mikey on bass, and the atmosphere is business-like. Folse feels like work.
On the other hand, Mikey is definitely more of a sneaker.
▲Mikey, Marco, and Folse from the back
Watari
Taking that into consideration, we want Mikey's 10th anniversary model to have both the ability to replace the sole and the Mikey style.
Egawa
The theme has been decided, albeit vaguely.
Watari
There are still many things that are difficult to understand just by talking, so we need to create a sample.
Egawa
What kind of leather are the samples made of?
When it comes to Mikey, velor is the standard.
▲Velour leather
Watari
While we were talking, I was thinking about what kind of material would be good, and what about nubuck, which has a texture similar to velor?
Egawa
Speaking of nubuck, the 20AW Mikey All Black was also made of nubuck, and past Mikeys have also used nubuck in spots.
▲20AW Mikey all black, Shorty all black
Watari
Other options include...leather that feels a little special.
Egawa
By the way, is it something like the Horween Chrome Excel that appeared at the previous Fors order meeting?
Watari
I agree. Chrome Excel is a famous leather used by various leather shoe brands, but it still has a nice atmosphere. Normally, it is difficult to use it due to price, but I would like to use it at the order meeting.
Egawa
Even though I am not very knowledgeable about leather, I could feel the difference in Chrome Excel both in appearance and feel.
▲PHOLUS made to order. Upper is chrome excel black
Watari
In that sense, I think Annonay and Dupuis are also good.
Egawa
Speaking of Dupuy, he also appeared at the order event for Ryu Tong Sewing Shoe Store that was held at Struct.
▲Collaboration model between Ryuso Sewing Shoe Store and blueover. The lining is Dupuis.
Egawa
Last time, the model we collaborated with Ryuso Sewing Shoe Store cost about 100,000 yen...
Watari
It is true that if you combine Goodyear and Dupuy shoes, it will cost a considerable amount of money, so you will want to consider the price as well.
Egawa
Price is an important point.
Hmm, in that sense, the oil leather made by blueover with the long-established tanner Sanyo is hard to throw away, and the waterproof leather used by Marco is also good.
▲PHOLUS made to order. The upper is oiled leather brown.
▲PHOLUS made to order. Upper is waterproof leather black
Watari
Both oil leather and waterproof leather are made through gradual improvements.
It's blueover's original leather, and I'm really grateful for Sanyo's cooperation.
Egawa
We had a lot of trouble during the development stage (lol)
Watari
That's right (lol) I'm still upset about it, and I'm causing trouble for the person in charge.
In that sense, it might be suitable as a 10th anniversary model.
However, the waterproof leather feels crisp and gives it a formal feel, so I'm a little doubtful whether it will suit Mikey.
Egawa
I agree
Watari
If you think about it, over the past 10 years, blueover has always received help from various factories and tanneries.
Egawa
That's why there are so many leather options. Therefore, I have to carefully choose which leather to use this time.
Watari
There's also a leather finish that goes well with Mikey's upper pattern. I'll take that into account and think about it.
Egawa
Also...what about the upper design?
Watari
I guess it's better not to change that.
Egawa
The seamless upper design is Mikey's most distinctive feature.
Watari
Let's keep the basics the same and change the specifications to something special.
Egawa
It's still in the planning stage, but we can see the direction.
In summary, the special item that symbolizes the 10th anniversary is the model ``Mikey'', which can be said to be the face of blueover, and is created with special specifications using the technology acquired through 10 years of connections. It is that
Watari
I agree.
Now that we have a direction, we can start making samples.
Egawa
The first sample is the most exciting part...! I'm starting to look forward to it.
In this content, I would like to follow the completion of the 10th anniversary model.
Next time, we will consider detailed specifications for the sample.
In this series, you can experience the process of creating a special 10th anniversary Mikey in real time. Please look forward to the second time!
